Tend & Keep Agroforestry & Food Forests · Lesson 2 of 6 · The layers Course home
Agroforestry & Food Forests · Lesson 2 of 6

The layers of a food forest

Canopy to roots: seven layers of food
About 30 min to read4 partsLayer calculatorHands-on practice

Walk into an old woodland and look up, then down. Tall trees, smaller trees beneath them, shrubs, ferns and flowers, a carpet of low plants, vines climbing toward the light, and roots below. Every level is full. A food forest copies that structure, but with plants that feed people.

Stacking food in layers means more harvest from the same ground, less weeding, less watering and healthier soil. It also makes a place that's simply lovely to be in: shady, fragrant and full of birds.

By the end of this lesson you will be able to
  1. 1Name the seven layers of a food forest, with examples of each.
  2. 2Arrange layers so every plant gets the light it needs.
  3. 3Estimate how many plants a food forest patch needs.
  4. 4Use edges and clearings to grow more.
  5. 5Design a small food forest patch in layers.
Part 1

The seven layers

In the 1980s, a British gardener named Robert Hart turned a small orchard on his farm in Shropshire into one of the first modern forest gardens. He described seven layers, and designers still use them today.

Seven layers of food, stacked like a woodland.fungal threads link it all1Canopychestnut, walnut, standard apple2Low treesdwarf fruit, persimmon, pawpaw3Shrubscurrants, blueberries4Herbs and perennialscomfrey, rhubarb, asparagus, herbs5Groundcover (at the surface)strawberries, clover, thyme6Rootsgarlic, potatoes, sunchokes7Vinesgrapes, hardy kiwi, beans
Seven layers as described by forest gardening pioneer Robert Hart. Many designers add an eighth: the fungi that connect the roots underground.
LayerWhat it isExamples
1 · CanopyThe tallest trees, often 30 ft and upChestnut, walnut, pecan, standard apple and pear
2 · Low treesSmaller trees under and between the giantsDwarf apples and pears, plums, persimmon, pawpaw, mulberry
3 · ShrubsBushes, mostly berries and nutsCurrants, gooseberries, blueberries, elderberry, hazelnut
4 · HerbaceousSoft-stemmed perennials that die back each winterComfrey, rhubarb, asparagus, mint, oregano, chives
5 · GroundcoverLow plants that carpet and protect the soilStrawberries, creeping thyme, clover, nasturtium
6 · RootsPlants grown for what's undergroundGarlic, onions, potatoes, sunchokes, horseradish
7 · VinesClimbers that use the other layers as trellisesGrapes, hardy kiwi, hops, runner beans
Part 2

Light is the limit

A real forest is dark underneath, and most fruit needs sun. So a food forest is really more like the edge of a woodland, or a sunny clearing, than the deep middle of one. The trick is arranging the layers so light reaches every level.

  1. Tallest on the north. Put canopy trees on the north side and step down toward the south, so taller plants don't shade shorter ones (Permaculture Lesson 1).
  2. Keep the canopy open. In cool or cloudy climates, leave plenty of gaps between big trees. Hot, sunny climates can handle a denser canopy, and the shade protects plants below.
  3. Shade lovers underneath. Currants, gooseberries, pawpaw, mint and many mushrooms are happy in partial shade. Put them where the shade will be.
  4. Plan for change. In year three your food forest is sunny; in year fifteen it's shady. Plant sun lovers in the gaps now and shade lovers for later.
Use the edges

More edge, more food

The boundary between a woodland and a meadow is one of the richest places in nature. A wavy, scalloped edge to your food forest gives you more of it: more sun pockets, more shelter, more variety.

Make clearings

Sun rooms

Small sunny clearings inside the food forest are perfect for annual vegetables, a bench, or a beehive, protected on all sides.

Part 3

How many plants?

A food forest isn't planted all at once, but it helps to know where you're headed.

Try it · your own patch

How many plants in each layer?

LayerGrown sizePlants

A rough starting point: each layer covers a share of the ground at its mature size, and the shares overlap because layers stack. Open designs leave more sun for the lower layers, which matters most in cool climates. Plant in phases, trees first.

Start small. A first food forest patch of 400 to 2,000 sq ft, about the size of a large backyard, is plenty to learn on. Begin around one or two trees and build outward each year.
Part 4

Planting it over time

Year 1

Trees and soil

Sheet mulch the area (Permaculture Lesson 3), plant canopy and low trees, and sow a nitrogen-fixing cover crop.

Years 2–3

Shrubs and herbs

Add berry bushes, comfrey, herbs and groundcovers in the sunny gaps.

Years 3–5

Vines and roots

Train vines up sturdy young trees or trellises, and tuck in root crops.

Year 5 and on

Edit and enjoy

Thin, prune, move plants that are struggling, and harvest from every layer.

The design opportunity

A mature food forest is one of the most beautiful places a family can make: dappled light, birdsong, the smell of ripe fruit and herbs underfoot. It's an orchard, a garden and a woodland all at once, and children love to get lost in it.

Hands-on practice · one afternoon

Map the layers in a real woodland or garden

Visit a woodland, a park or an old garden and read it like a food forest designer. Then design a small food forest patch of your own, layer by layer.

You'll need

  • A notebook, pencils and a clipboard
  • A plant identification app or field guide
  • A thermometer
  • Graph paper for your design
  • Your permaculture base map and zones

Do it together

  1. Find a woodland edge where trees meet open ground.
  2. Look up, then down. List the plants you see in each of the seven layers. Which layers are crowded, and which are empty?
  3. Measure the light. Take the temperature in full sun, at the edge and under the trees. How different are they?
  4. Sketch a cross-section showing the layers, like the diagram above.
  5. Design your patch. On graph paper, draw a 20 × 20 ft food forest patch with at least one plant in every layer, tallest on the north.
  6. Find its place on your base map, likely in Zone 2 or 3.
AGES 5–8

Little foresters

  • Point to something in each layer, from the treetops to the groundcover
  • Feel the difference between sun and shade
  • Draw a tree with a vine climbing it
AGES 9–14

Older foresters

  • Identify plants with a guide and sort them by layer
  • Record and compare the temperatures
  • Run the layer calculator for your patch

Keep the design. In Lesson 4 you'll turn its center into a fruit tree guild.

Closing

Abundance on every level

Once you see the layers, you'll never look at a woodland or a garden the same way. Empty ground starts to look like an invitation: room for a currant here, a strawberry there, a grapevine climbing the old pear tree. Every layer filled is more food and less work.

Next, we choose the right trees for your climate, so every one you plant can thrive.

Worksheet

Your Lesson 2 worksheet

Work through these together. Your answers save on this device as you type, and print cleanly for your records.

For your homeschool records

Progress record

What this lesson practices:

  • ScienceEcosystems, plant needs for light, and how organisms depend on each other (NGSS 5-LS2-1, MS-LS2-2, 2-LS4-1).
  • MathArea, circles and estimating (Common Core 7.G.B.4, 4.MD.A.3).
  • InvestigationObserving, measuring and comparing conditions in different places.
  • Art and designDrawing a cross-section and a plan view.

Standards mapping is a draft. If you use charter or ESA funds, confirm it with your education specialist.

Sources for this lesson